Following the Footsteps of Lawrence

Robert Darroch

From Rananim June 1994, Vol 2, No 2

 

When he came on deck after breakfast and the ship had stopped, it was pouring with rain, the P. & O. wharf looked black and dismal, empty. It might almost have been an abandoned city. He walked round to the starboard side, to look towards the imposing hillock of the city and the Circular Quay. Black, all black and unutterably dismal in the pouring rain, even the green grass of the Botanical Gardens, and the bits of battlement of the Conservatorium. Unspeakably forlorn. Yet over it all, spanning the harbour, the most magnificent great rainbow....A huge, brilliant, supernatural rainbow. spanning all Sydney.
"But the taxi-drivers! And the man charged you eight shillings on Saturday for what would be two shillings in London!"
Somers wandered disconsolate through the streets of Sydney, forced to admit that there were fine streets, like Birmingham for example; that the parks were well-kept; that the harbour, with all the two-decker brown ferry-boats sliding continuously from the Circular Quay, was an extraordinary place.
The day was Saturday. Early in the afternoon Harriett went to the little front gate because she heard a band; or the rudiments of a band. Nothing would have kept her indoors when she heard a trumpet, not six wild Somerses. It was some very spanking Boy Scouts marching out.
In Martin Place he longed for Westminster, in Sussex Street he almost wept for Covent Garden and St Martin's Lane, at the Circular Quay he pined for London Bridge.
It was Sunday, and a lovely sunny day of Australian winter. Manly is the bathing suburb of Sydney - one of them. You pass quite close to the wide harbour gate, The Heads, on the ferry steamer. Then you land on the wbarf, and walk up the street...with seaside shops and restaurants, till you come out on a promenade at the end, and there is the wide Pacific rolling in on the yellow sand: the wide fierce sea, tbat makes all the built-over land dwindle into non-existence.
They sat on the tram-car and ran for miles along the coast with ragged bush loused over with thousands of small promiscuous bungalows, built of everything from patchwork of kerosene tin upgo fine red brick and stucco...Not far off the Pacific boomed. But fifty yards inland started these bits of swamp...
This was Sunday afternoon, but with none of the surfeited dreariness of English Sunday afternoons. It was still a raw loose world. All Sydney would be out by the sea or in the bush...And to-morrow they'd all be working away, with just as little meaning...Even the rush for money had no real pip in it....When all is said and done, even money is not much good where there is no geauine culture....It has no real magic in Australia.